Ian Froeb | Post-Dispatch
Restaurant critic
From O鈥橣allon, Missouri, to O鈥橣allon, Illinois, this year鈥檚 reviews took me across the metro area and back again. Here, in alphabetic order, are the restaurants I visited in 2024.
Note: Pricing information is an estimate based on what an average diner would spend given a restaurant鈥檚 format: $ ($20 and under), $$ ($20-$40), $$$ ($40-$60), $$$$ ($60 and up).
The 24-ounce pork chop with champagne peach glaze, with braised cabbage and carrot puree at August the Mansion.
Best New Restaurants 2024
A historic mansion in O鈥橣allon, Illinois, is the gorgeous setting for upscale, but unstuffy seasonal fare. Chef Jessica Hickman serves a whopping pork chop, zingy Peruvian-inspired chicken and the best Brussels sprouts in town. $$$-$$$$ Highly Recommended (Sept. 13)
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WHERE: 1680 Mansion Way, O’Fallon, Illinois MORE INFO: 618-607-8040;
Two years after construction forced it out of its original Clayton home, tapas restaurant BARcelona returned with a menu that feels dated, rather than timeless, and tepid in execution (i.e., alb贸ndigas or patatas bravas in 鈥渟picy鈥 sauce). $$-$$$ Not Recommended (Feb. 15)
WHERE: 7810 Forsyth Boulevard, Clayton MORE INFO: 314-899-9600;
The vegetarian lunch thali at Bayleaf in Chesterfield.
Another appealing Indian restaurant in Chesterfield, Bayleaf features a wide range of both meat-based and vegetarian dishes. Among the highlights are a spin on Scotch eggs, a spicy, tangy gongura curry and chole bhatura (chickpeas with fried bread). $$ Recommended (Oct. 24)
WHERE: 13724 Olive Boulevard, Chesterfield MORE INFO: 314-392-9348;
Chef Dara Thach鈥檚 O鈥橣allon, Missouri, restaurant includes sushi and Chinese fare, but the most compelling dishes are from Thach鈥檚 native Cambodia, including kuy teav (rice noodles in a rich pork broth) and fried wings with pepper-lime dipping sauce. $$ Recommended (July 18)
WHERE: 3038 Winghaven Boulevard, O’Fallon, Missouri MORE INFO: 636-265-0521;
Beyond Sweet Kitchen + Bar opened in late 2023 at 5143 Delmar Boulevard in the growing Delmar Maker District.
This lively Delmar Maker District restaurant features upscale dishes from talented chef Jason Lamont, including fried duck 鈥渨ings,鈥 jerk chicken thighs over a coconut-curry risotto and a whole grilled red snapper. $$$ Recommended (Sept. 20)
WHERE: 5143 Delmar Boulevard MORE INFO: 314-601-3628;
STL 100 2024
A veteran of several top 果酱视频 kitchens, chef Elliott Brown brings technique and soul to this Midtown cafe. The signature biscuits are delicious by themselves, as a sandwich or smothered in gravy (mushroom, roasted chicken or traditional sausage). $ Recommended (March 7)
WHERE: 2649 Washington Avenue MORE INFO: 314-769-9434;
Best New Restaurants 2024
The second restaurant from acclaimed chef Andrew Cisneros of Jalea brings his modern Peruvian cooking to the Delmar Loop. Pollo a la brasa, Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken, is the menu鈥檚 highlight, but don鈥檛 miss the fried rice or chicken 鈥渃urry.鈥 $$-$$$ Highly Recommended (Oct. 3)
WHERE: 6138 Delmar Boulevard MORE INFO: 314-256-1937;
Damn Fine Hand Pies serves a variety of hand pies, doughnuts, breads and sandwiches.
Best New Restaurants 2024
Madeline Hissong and Gene Bailey feature hand pies savory (sausage and gravy) and sweet (seasonal fruit) as well as doughnuts (including a great apple fritter) and sandwiches at their Shaw storefront. It鈥檚 果酱视频鈥 best new bakery in years. $ Highly Recommended (Sept. 6)
WHERE: 4000 Shaw Boulevard MORE INFO:
St. Peters newcomer Do Shaggy鈥檚 distinguishes itself from the smash-burger crowd with juicy, flavorful patties and excellent garnishes, from classic grilled onions to fiery grilled jalape帽os. The Steak 鈥榥 Shake-tribute patty melt is top-notch. $ Recommended (Dec. 19)
WHERE: 429 South Church Street, St. Peters MORE INFO: 636-387-0405;
Best New Restaurants 2024
Ed Heath, co-founder and acclaimed original chef of Cleveland-Heath, returns to downtown Edwardsville with this casual sandwich joint (and bar). Heath鈥檚 subtle touches power great takes on such classic combos as ham and cheese and the Reuben. $-$$ Highly Recommended (Dec. 5)
WHERE: 222 North Main Street, Edwardsville MORE INFO: 618-560-5213;
Best New Restaurants 2024
This breezy, yet sophisticated restaurant from Ben Poremba harnesses a charcoal-fired grill for exemplary steaks, seafood, vegetables and more. Don鈥檛 miss Esca鈥檚 butter cauldron, one more example of Poremba鈥檚 perfectly portioned excess. $$$-$$$$ Essential (June 6)
WHERE: 5095 Delmar Boulevard MORE INFO: 314-365-2686;
This City Foundry restaurant from acclaimed chef Gerard Craft takes a global approach to American barbecue (e.g., Yucatecan beef brisket, Vietnamese-inspired pulled pork), but it fumbles both the concept and, sometimes, the execution. $$-$$$ Not Recommended (Nov. 7)
WHERE: 3730 Foundry Way MORE INFO: 314-924-9728;
The second 2024 debut from Ben Poremba brings stylish Mediterranean cafe fare, with an emphasis on Israeli cuisine, to the Delmar Maker District. An herb-intensive Persian omelet and a Jerusalem bagel with smoked whitefish are highlights. $-$$ Recommended (Oct. 17)
WHERE: 5090 Delmar Boulevard MORE INFO: 314-348-1111;
The Chicken Parmesan at Good Company in 果酱视频.
Cocktails are the focus of this Grove hotspot from the owners of the Good Ice company, but the food menu also delivers with appealing takes on a green-chile cheeseburger, chicken Parmesan and more. $$ Recommended (Sept. 27)
WHERE: 4317 Manchester Avenue MORE INFO: 314-405-8333;
The team behind barbecue juggernaut Sugarfire Smoke House and spinoff Hi-Pointe Drive-In tackle pizza at this downtown joint, including the signature, ridiculously oversized P.I.M.P. Slice. The menu mainly features reasonably sized New York-ish pies. $-$$ Recommended (April 18)
WHERE: 610 Washington Avenue MORE INFO: 314-696-2033;
Best New Restaurants 2024
This Clayton restaurant nimbly ranges across Japanese, Korean and Chinese cuisines with appealing ramen, fried rice (poured tableside) and bibimbap. Don鈥檛 overlook the naengmyeon, a very cold, very refreshing North Korean noodle dish. $-$$ Highly Recommended (April 25)
WHERE: 8113 Maryland Avenue, Clayton MORE INFO: 314-354-8086;
Breakfast and lunch are equal draws at this charming cafe inside an old farmhouse in Shiloh. A breakfast sandwich and luscious French toast are breakfast stars, while lunch sandwiches might include the terrific seasonal braised beef with giardiniera. $ Recommended (April 4)
WHERE: 430 South Main Street, Shiloh MORE INFO:
The beloved Thai restaurant has relocated from Tower Grove South to a sleek, slimmed-down storefront in Richmond Heights. The menu retains the most popular dishes, from pad Thai and curries to more elegant dishes like sweet-and-sour duck. $$ Recommended (Jan. 18)
WHERE: 8039 Dale Avenue, Richmond Heights MORE INFO: 314-771-1777;
The lobster Rangoon at Le Ono
STL 100 2024
A showpiece restaurant for downtown O鈥橣allon, Illinois, Le Ono features the French-Polynesian fusion cuisine of chef Talani Mo鈥檈. Expect dishes like macadamia-encrusted red snapper and creative takes on shrimp toast, bao and much more. $$$-$$$$ Recommended (Jan. 11)
WHERE: 101 South Cherry Street, O’Fallon, Illinois MORE INFO:
Three taco varieties 鈥 the tripe, tongue and shrimp 鈥 at Locoz Tacoz.
Tyler Garcia鈥檚 taqueria has expanded its menu and appeal after relocating from Tower Grove South to a Maplewood storefront. Birria and lengua are new standouts alongside Locoz Tacoz鈥檚 signature carne asada and hot sauces. $-$$ Highly Recommended (May 30)
WHERE: 7374 Manchester Road, Maplewood MORE INFO:
The owners of the Webster Groves restaurants Robust Wine Bar and Parkmoor Drive-In have joined forces for this swanky old-school Italian spot. Steaks, terrific chicken marsala, real-deal carbonara and grilled oysters are the must-orders. $$$-$$$$ Highly Recommended (Feb. 22)
WHERE: 101 West Lockwood Avenue, Webster Groves MORE INFO: 314-963-1976;
Relocated a short distance from its original home, Colleen Clawson鈥檚 Benton Park restaurant has evolved into a cozy neighborhood spot for seasonal breakfast (the crepe-like Norwegian pancakes), lunch and dinner fare. $$ Highly Recommended (June 20)
WHERE: 2924 South Jefferson Avenue MORE INFO: 314-833-0085;
Simon and Angelica Lusky launched Motor Town Pizza as a pandemic ghost kitchen from their restaurant Revel Kitchen. The thick-crust Detroit-style pizza have earned their Richmond Heights storefront, and the wings and sandwiches are also worth a visit. $$ Recommended (May 2)
WHERE: 8029 Dale Avenue, Richmond Heights MORE INFO: 314-514-5392;
The white pizza at Napoli Bros. Pizza & Pasta in Chesterfield on Friday, Aug. 2, 2024.
Best New Restaurants 2024
The Pietoso family behind Cafe Napoli introduce coal-fired New Haven, Connecticut-style pizza to 果酱视频 at their Chesterfield venture. Standout pies include the tomato, the white with clams and the pepperoni-pancetta-sausage. $$-$$$ Highly Recommended (Aug. 9)
WHERE: 17081 North Outer 40 Road, Suite 205, Chesterfield MORE INFO: 636-200-6300;
Best New Restaurants 2024
Celebrated chef Steve Gontram throws a shared-plates dinner party with co-owner Dave Zitko and chef Stephen Kovac at this Botanical Heights restaurant and cocktail bar. The Mediterranean fare shines from hummus to vegetables (eggplant with mint and pomegranate) to a braised lamb shank. $$$ Highly Recommended (Dec. 12)
WHERE: 1621 Tower Grove Avenue MORE INFO: 314-696-2010;
Oak Street reinvents a 162-year-old building in Cottleville as an upscale restaurant and boutique hotel. The menu aims for contemporary seasonal fare (scallops over butternut-squash puree), but its ambitions don鈥檛 always translate on the plate. $$$-$$$$ Not Recommended (Oct. 31)
WHERE: 5521 Oak Street, Cottleville MORE INFO: 636-720-1901;
The interior of Osteria Forto Italian restaurant is photographed on Wednesday, May 15, 2024. Osteria Forto is located at 2509 Highway K in O鈥橣allon, Mo.
Veteran chef Fortunato Pietoso takes a victory lap at this O鈥橣allon, Missouri, restaurant, bringing his experienced touch to shrimp scampi, veal chops, pork rib chop saltimbocca and more classic Italian dishes. $$$-$$$$ Highly Recommended (May 23)
WHERE: 2509 Highway K, O’Fallon, Missouri MORE INFO: 636-294-1435;
Best New Restaurants 2024
The latest venture from Pizzeoli and Pizza Head founder Scott Sandler is a no-frills pizzeria in the Central West End. The wood-fired pizza is not quite Neapolitan, not quite New York, and excellent with pepperoni or spinach as the main topping. $$ Highly Recommended (July 11)
WHERE: 4501 Maryland Avenue MORE INFO: 314-587-8000;
果酱视频 Alderwoman Cara Spencer, left, presents Gordon Ramsay with a resolution from the city at the grand opening of Ramsay鈥檚 Kitchen at the Four Season Hotel in downtown 果酱视频 on Friday, June 28, 2024.
The celebrity chef brings one of his branded restaurants to the Four Seasons Hotel 果酱视频 downtown. The menu (beef wellington, fish and chips) is boring, the kitchen鈥檚 execution is iffy, and the hospitality lacks the Four Seasons鈥 usual standards. $$$-$$$$ Not Recommended (June 27)
WHERE: 999 North Second Street MORE INFO: 314-881 5759;
This Soulard hotspot is more than just another bar for the golf-cart crowd. The food menu takes its inspiration from various Asian cuisines, with fun riffs on fried rice, General Tso鈥檚 chicken and more. $ Recommended (Sept. 27)
WHERE: 1862 South 10th Street MORE INFO:
The casual Mexican concept from the team behind Vicia has moved into a permanent home. The food is still very good, especially the best-in-class fish tacos, but the restaurant lacks the charm of the al-fresco original. $$ Recommended (June 13)
WHERE: 4239 Duncan Avenue MORE INFO: 314-261-4551;
The team behind the beloved Balkan Treat Box focuses on breakfast at their second Webster Groves restaurant, with their spin on avocado toast as well as toast with moussaka-seasoned ground beef. The breakfast sandwich is the best in town. $ Highly Recommended (April 11)
WHERE: 60 North Gore Avenue A, Webster Groves MORE INFO: 314-395-2760;
Is the Westport Plaza outpost of Three Sixty a restaurant or a lounge with a kitchen? The latter, really, but the kitchen holds its own with fun snacks and larger dishes like the plump burger and spicy strozzapretti pasta. $$-$$$ Recommended (May 9)
WHERE: 111 Westport Plaza Drive, Suite 1200, Maryland Heights MORE INFO: 314-683-2337;
Guava Cheesecake gelato at Tre Cuori Gelateria & Acai in Ellisville
Italian gelato via owner T谩ssia Vicentin Rezende鈥檚 native Brazil is the featured dish at this Ellisville shop. Standout flavors include guava cheesecake and Arachidi (peanut butter with chocolate and dulce de leche). $ Recommended (Aug. 2)
WHERE: 15877 Fountain Plaza Drive, Ellisville MORE INFO: 636-657-0507;
Chris Bertke, 果酱视频鈥 mad scientist vegan chef, finally boasts a storefront for his creative faux meats. No sandwich is sacred, from imitation Bosnian cevapi to Italian cold cuts, from French dip to Maine lobster roll. $ Recommended (March 28)
WHERE: 5003 Gravois Avenue MORE INFO:
The team behind Polite Society and the Bellwether serve sandwiches and salads at their casual Shaw cafe. Look for smart combos like the Sarah Connor sandwich, which accents ham, bacon and brie with arugula and apricot jam. $ Recommended (Aug. 16)
WHERE: 4100 Shenandoah Avenue MORE INFO: 314-282-8016;
Reviewed, but closed
Two restaurants I reviewed in 2024 have closed.
Burger Champ closed in June in Maplewood after eight months, though owner Chris Kelling has included some of its burgers on the menu of his nearby Pizza Champ (2657 Lyle Avenue, Maplewood).
Riccardo鈥檚 on Broadway, a sequel to the late Lafayette Square restaurant Ricardo鈥檚 Italian Cafe, closed in October after 15 months in the Near North Riverfront neighborhood.
